Stelios Jackson's walks

interkriti:the E4 and other Mythical Trails-by Stelios Jackson

A diary of events of the trials and tribulations
of a lone walker, in his attempt to cross Crete
from Kato Zakros to Kissamos...

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"I had done this kinda thing before. The pleasure of planning, the virtually neurotic state a week or so before setting off, wanting... no needing to be in Greece... and then... it's over... and for a while you're left with an emptiness... an unfillable void..."

Unfortunately it is not much in the way of a guide for those of you who wish to follow the "E4" (Pan European Footpath Number Four), as I went from slavishly following it, to hoping to find it, to deliberately ignoring it during the five weeks I spent walking the island. Saying that, as soon as I had decided that the E4 wasn't as important as the enjoyment of the walk itself, I couldn't help but find it, the antithesis of those early days when I searched high and low for it. I hope that these pages will point to some of the pitfalls(!) involved, places where one can stay - and more importantly where one cannot - and the joys and frustrations that are an inevitable consequence. For those of you who may wish to do some walking in Crete, there are walks here for all ages and levels of fitness, some of which tested me more than I'd like to admit, but omit those details, I shall not!

©interkriti

The walk was dedicated to the memory of my Grandfather, William Watson Jackson (1910-2002).

Preface

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Chapters

1) ThePlanning and Arrival (E4 I go!)2) The Pre-walk: Velonado-Soughia(!) - Part One: Velonado- Kato Rodakino - Part Two: Kato Rodakino - Chora Sphakion - Part Three: Chora Sphakion - Aghia Roumelli - Part Four: Aghia Roumelli to Soughia.3) Four days of Rest: Soughia to Kato Zakros by Car. - Part One: Soughia and Chania - Part Two: To Kato Zakros 4) Kato Zakros to Chandras 5) to Chrisopigi...to Chrisopigi...to Chrisopigi!!!6) Chrisopigi to Vasiliki

7) Vasiliki to Selakano 8) Selakano to Aghios Georgios 9) Aghios Georgios to Archanes 10) Archanes to Ano Asites 11) Ano Asites to Fourfouras 12) Fourfouras to Spili 13) Spili to Aghia Roumelli 14) Aghia Roumelli to Soughia (again!)15) Soughia to Paleohora16) Paleohora to Chrisoskalitissa17) Chrisoskalitissa to Sfinari18) Sfinari to Kissamos Kastelli

History Boxes

No 1 - Ill Met by Moonlight No 2 - Frangokastello:A bit of History No 3 - Xan Fielding's books No 4 - An outline history of Chania No 5 - The 'Palace' of Zakros No 6 - John Devitt Stringfellow Pendlebury

No 7 - The Lassithi Plateau No 8 - 'All Cretans Are Liars'No 9 - Ancient Archanes No 10 - The Sites of Phaistos, Aghia Triadha and GortysNo 11 - Linear B: A Gentle Introduction

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following friends I met whilst on Crete, some of whom feature within the pages that follow: Adam; Alexandra and Bill; Athanati; Chris and Mandy; Donna; Jean; Ray and Lynn; the staff at Oleander Cars; Rex Anderson; Stelios F.; Stuart S, Tony Fennymore, Virginia Heyden; and back home the staff of The Hellenic Bookservice, just for putting up with me; my sister Alison for keeping in touch; the late Christopher Thorne for his well chosen words, travel writers Christopher Somerville, Paul Hellander and Jonnie Godfrey for taking the time to reply to my requests for information and Marc Dubin for his constantly enthusiastic advice; the members, subscribers and staff of The British School at Athens - especially Alexander MacGillivray - who are a constant source of archaeological inspiration to me; the many Cretans who made this journey so memorable and last but not least to all the Interkritters who helped and encouraged me, before, during and after the walk.

The walk was dedicated to the memory of my Grandfather, William Watson Jackson (1910-2002).